Keep your plant in bright, indirect light to increase the variegation. Direct sunlight for a couple of hours a day in an eastern-facing window will also help it to maintain its pink leaves.

Allow the top half of the soil to dry out between waterings. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water  enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes.  This plant does not like to sit in water. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot.  

Average humidity levels at least 40% is adequate for this plant's needs. If her leaf edges are turning brown, increase the humidity around this plant or add a humidifier closeby.

 Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.

This plant will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 60°F if left outside.

Apply a liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants. Water the soil before application each time. Apply during the spring, summer and fall season. Let it rest during the winter.

When receiving the Philodendron plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which can cause blackening leaves.)
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well draining potting mix with one part perlite and one part orchid bark.
Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any brown or yellowing leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.

Stem Cutting:
In early spring, take a philodendron cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine.  Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate with aerial root or nodes attached.
Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.
After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant.
*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix.
Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it.
Water the plant and keep it in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division:
Divide the philodendron in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.
Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners.
Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary.
Set it in bright, indirect sunlight and water.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form.

Keep your plant in bright, indirect light to increase the variegation. Direct sunlight for a couple of hours a day in an eastern-facing window will also help it to maintain its pink leaves.

Allow the top half of the soil to dry out between waterings. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water  enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes.  This plant does not like to sit in water. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot.  

Average humidity levels at least 40% is adequate for this plant's needs. If her leaf edges are turning brown, increase the humidity around this plant or add a humidifier closeby.

 Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.

This plant will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 60°F if left outside.

Apply a liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants. Water the soil before application each time. Apply during the spring, summer and fall season. Let it rest during the winter.

When receiving the Philodendron plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which can cause blackening leaves.)
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well draining potting mix with one part perlite and one part orchid bark.
Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any brown or yellowing leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.

Stem Cutting:
In early spring, take a philodendron cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine.  Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate with aerial root or nodes attached.
Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.
After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant.
*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix.
Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it.
Water the plant and keep it in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division:
Divide the philodendron in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.
Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners.
Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary.
Set it in bright, indirect sunlight and water.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form.